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Test results and other information
#1
I have 3 game cameras set up in the backyard.  All are loaded with name brand rechargeable batteries.
I was curious as to the lifespan of the batteries.  They were charged.  When I first looked at the condition of the batteries, I had not kept track of whether the batteries were still good.  They were all "dead". 

So, I came up with a plan.  Put charged batteries in each unit and wait three months.  I opened the first game camera at 3 1/2 months and the name brand rechargeable batteries were "dead'.    I have not yet checked the other two units.  I will assume that the batteries are dead.

There was no sign of water intrusion.

My next experiment will be for two months after I put in fully charged batteries.  If they are still good, then I will calendar battery charges.  If the batteries do not last two months, then I will experiment with one month.

Unit 2 was a mixture of Eneloops and another name brand. 3 Eneloops questionable.
Unit 3 is all Eneloops - still good but based upon charge reduction, would be out in another couple of weeks.

I can live with changing and/or charging batteries every two months. My fingers are crossed.

So, I went into a supply of Eneloop chargeables that I had charged and not used.  The date of the initial charging was January 2018.  The batteries were registering just over the half way mark - meaning that there good, but the charge had significantly decreased.   This warns me that I cannot rely upon the manufacturer's marketing that the chargeables lose only slightly each year.  Now that I know that, I will not keep unused Eneloops as sacred reserve batteries.  

I follow a practice of taking batteries from the initial packaging and putting them in either 4 or 8 unit clear plastic holders.  I had received new off brand batteries that I had put into 4 unit holders.  I think that they were "giveaways".  All had corroded.  The name brand batteries are just fine in small plastic packs.  Another reason not to buy no-name brands.
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#2
I am following up my discoveries/mistakes.

1. I finally understand that there is (or should be) a break-in cycle for AA rechargables.
2. I have some brand name 4 unit chargers without a break-in cycle. When I used them, they did not fully charge new batteries that had been previously uncharged.
3. I have a highly recommended 8 unit charger, that again, does not not have a break-in cycle. Didn't fully charge new batteries. Moreover, at the literature says, the display screen is too faint.
4. I have a couple of brand name 4 unit chargers with the break-in cycle and they were able to fully charge the batteries coming from the no break-in cycle within minutes.
5. my three game cameras took 8 batteries each. PITA to try to take them all down and recharge. So, I bought a highly recommended, 8 unit recharger system with a break-in cycle.
6. Learned from the literature that periodically, previously charged batteries need to go through the break-in cycle again.

7. Continued to take batteries out of flashlights and package the empty flashlight with the batteries in zip lock baggies. Hope for fewer, future destroyed flashlights from leaking batteries.
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#3
You got me thinking and I'm trying to remember the last time I had batteries leak?

It use to be a fairly common occurrence or at least it seemed that away. I just switched out all my lantern batteries and none of them had leaked. Although a few things that I have changed. Many of my batteries are rechargeable, so I know that helps with the whole leak issue. The batteries that are not, are higher quality 10 year batteries. I have phased out all my older cheaper batteries. Now I'm not a 100% sure that those two things are what made the difference, if the batteries as a whole are just getting better, I'm I getting better with switching them out before they leak, or am I just getting old and can't remember the leaking batteries?
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#4
I am adding a few more thoughts.

1. In the past, I used simple chain for lanyards - meaning, put a light at the end of a chain looped around your neck. Finally, biting the bullet, I found material lanyards at an incredibly low price on eBay. So, I ordered split rings and cloth material lanyards. I had not realized that the markup in the local hardware store was few hundred percent. I am putting the lanyards on Photon lights and whistles which I will be giving to younger relatives as gifts.

I will also be putting the keychain lights not already on key chains on lanyards. When you get 25 cloth lanyards with metal clips for about $9 delivered, the money is well spent.

2. I lost one $30 light and about 12 stored batteries to corrosion this time. Will not lose any flashlights to corrosion in the future. The non-first line lights had the batteries taken out and were individually stored in zip lock baggies.

3. I still ended up with two identical flashlights for which I did not have batteries. 123 batteries did not fit. Fortunately, there is a shop specializing in batteries about 3 miles away and I will probably check with them tomorrow.
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#5
I'm curious to here what type batteries those lights take and how did you come about them? Are they specialty lights?
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#6
I'm curious to here what type batteries those lights take and how did you come about them? Are they specialty lights?

Quite a number of sub questions are included.

Batteries and how you deal with them.
1. There are multiple battery types. Here is how I handle them. The button/medical/tiny batteries are generally individually wrapped. They are kept that way and collectively put into a separate clear plastic small snapware container. The larger batteries that common in mammoth bulk packs are put into smaller, cheap RC plastic battery holders as they might leak and you end up with white crud. The larger batteries are put into clear plastic snapware containers by battery type. Now you know what you have and don't have to go digging through a drawer.
2. Some batteries are labeled with the year of manufacture and the estimated lifetime if kept in storage. Nice to know. Most batteries will live longer. Helpful if you rotate batteries.
3. There are no proprietary batteries. It is not like Eveready has corner on the market. However, some smaller batteries have alternative markings in the market place. There are lists on the internet. You can create it by say asking google . . .what batteries are the same as ct13 . .. making up a name.
4. Can a name brand battery be made in Japan, shipped to Red China and be cheap? No. So, if you buy a name brand battery made in Japan, don't buy it on line from Red China.
5. Are all batteries good, honest, and reliable? No. There are good, honest and reliable batteries made in Red China. But stay away from no-name brands and stay away even from name brands from small time sellers from Red China on eBay. Buy from established sellers or established selling groups.
6. Life is tough. Make it easy on yourself. When you buy a flashlight, copy the manual into the computer and a back up usb device. If the print on a manual is microscopic, go on line, resize the online manual and print out two copies. Keep a copy with the flashlight if you have a lot of different flashlights.
7. Life is tough. Unless you are totally organized in your life, make it easier for yourself. If I have a special purpose light that takes special batteries and it is not going to be sitting out and be a front line flashlight, I put the light, folded up manual, and batteries in a clear zip lock baggie. When we had a major earthquake and there was broken glass, it would have been nice to simply reach under the bed, pull out a baggie and go. No, I had to be conventional with batteries in the flashlight (corroded and unusable) in the service porch closet. So, now every room in house has at least one cheap, disposable light available to get started.
8. Essentially, you have to understand that there are two types of batteries - disposable and rechargeable. Putting a disposable/not rechargeable battery in a battery charger is a recipe for disaster. You don't stick a metal fork in a wall socket, so don't do this. Brief rechargeable battery discussion. If you have light/tool/device that uses a rechargeable battery, you will have a manual that tells you what level of (using layman's term) battery is needed. If you use a battery that is not rated high enough in energy, you will be lucky to get any decent performance. If you use a battery with a way high energy level, it doesn't make your device better. It would be like putting premium gasoline in a car designed for regular.

Flashlight selection.
1. look at the application. When I was a kid, I wondered why military flashlights were so bad (read dim). Now I understand why. If I wanted to read the numbers on a combination lock in the dark, my keychain Photon light was too dim for reading the lock. However, if I had a Photon on a lanyard on my neck with the switch to continuous "on", I could walk about in the pitch black and see obstacles to avoid, see door knobs to open doors and have my hands free and not one jammed up with a handheld light.
2. Look at the complexity of the light. I don't need a "strobe function". I don't need to try to remember how to cycle through a specific light to get to one of three or five modes. I am not going to be carrying the manual with me in the dark.

I give my girl friend flashlights that take 1 AA battery, have 1 mode and cost under $5. She can check the battery with a battery tester. She has multiples set up that way - in the car, in the bedroom, in the tray for the car keys by the door.
Nothing to recharge. You push it on the tail end and it comes on. You can leave a battery in the light, and if it corrodes, BFD! If she is at my place and needs to find something in her car (you don't want to look in the trunk!), I have high powered lights powered by 1850 rechargeable batteries at my front door.

I just spent three days working with rechargeable batteries for 3 game cameras that took 8 batteries each. Image having to throw away 24 disposable batteries a couple of times a year! I upgraded my available charging equipment and next time, it will be a few minutes pulling the spent batteries, sticking them in an 8 battery charger (more than one), and a few minutes to put them back in the cameras the next day.

I look at run times. The function of a flashlight is to allow you to perform tasks or better perform tasks when you could not do things because it is dark. You don't need many lumens (a measurement of light level) to walk a path or have some illumination when you are cooking or assembling a pack just before dawn. However, you will need more intense light when reading a manual, sewing a rip in clothing. So like so many other things in life "one size does not fit all". So you will end up with an assortment of lights.

The plain fact of life is that if an emergency lasts long enough, you will run out of charged batteries. Here are some ways of coping. Sometimes the options are not going be ideal.
1. there are radios and flashlights you can use that are handcranked.
2. there are flashlights that work by shaking the flashlight.
3. portable communication devices that use batteries can gobble up batteries. Have a time of day to communicate and operate the devices sparingly.
4. solar powered lights work by using a rechargable battery. Some lights come on as motion detectors. Some lights come on with darkness. Eventually, those batteries do wear out. Some devices allow access to the battery for replacement. Others do not. If you want a solar powered light that will stay on 16 hours during your winter time, good luck finding any on the market. If you want to find a motion detector light that works beyond a range of 30 feet, good luck. If you want a motion detector that locates a bad guy 100 yards away, you have been watching too many sci-fi movies.
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